4 - Assembly.
Once ultimated bodyshell and bottom, you can proceed closing the model, after inserting the axels in its holes.
We suggest to stick them with bicomponent glue, after removing a bit of paint in the contact zone.
Let it dry up for at least 24 hours, always leaving it upside-down, to avind that the exaust glue gas leave glows on the glasses.
Assemble the brake plates on the ryms, and then the tyres.
Stick the whol on the axels, cutted at the right length, trying to respect this setup parameter :
height from the mudguard ( and so of the car from the ground ), related to the leg type ( ground or asphalt ),
camber, ( high on asphalt, almost zero on ground ),
keep the ryms aligned with the mudguards ( a little inside on the ground legs ),
brake caliper orientation,
You can slightly change the wheel position bending with a pliers the axel before proceeding with sticking.
Now, for comform, you can place your model on a wood base, for handling it without touching.
You can now go on with decalcomanias placing, after accurately cleaning the model, starting from the bigger, like bands, that someone prefer to apply before closing the model, helped with the softener and a toothpick, taking care of the position and the lying inside the bodyshells lines, that contributes to the final look of the model.
Then go on with the smaller decals placing.
In the case the decalcomanias glue was altered, you can use a small quantity of vinavil very diluted.
Apply then the photoengravings on the bodyshell ( engine-cover hooks, hooks, engine-cover grills, windscreen wipers, lights ), always using vinavil.
The photoengravings had to be cutted at line, using a small very sharp scissor, possibly used only for this purpose.
To easy the cutting we suggest to detatch the part from the whole at some millimeters, and then refine the photoengraving.
Almost finished, you can now go on with the last details, as mirrors and aerial.
You can finally close your base, or put it in your display case.